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As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases.

The underlined text on this page contains affiliate links, which means I may receive a small commission, at no extra cost to you, if you click on a link and make a purchase. 

Disclaimer: As a licensed cosmetologist, I share knowledge based on professional experience; However, I am not a doctor or dermatologist, so I will cite or link to scientific articles whenever possible, and highly recommend consulting with a medical professional for extreme scalp or skin issues . 

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Hair Washing

Many clients say that the shampoo is the best part of getting a salon service, but it can be a bit of a chore when we have to do it ourselves. It's difficult knowing how often to wash, what to do, and what to use...

Let's break it down so that step one of the hair care routine can begin! 

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HEARD FROM BEHIND THE CHAIR:

"I HAVE TO WASH MY HAIR EVERY DAY, OR IT GETS TOO GREASY!"

Well, actually...  

What's happening here is this: the scalp, much like the rest of the skin, produces sebum (oil). Sebum seals in moisture, preventing dryness and flakes, and shields against environmental damage and pathogens... and shampoo essentially strips it away! The scalp then produces excess sebum to compensate for that loss. In addition, many of the shampoo formulas out there contain heavy ingredients and silicones, which build up on the hair and scalp. Hard water and not rinsing thoroughly enough can leave behind residue that mimics grease. So we're looking at a problem that's caused by... the solution??

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Let's look at a brief history of shampoo:

The ritual of scalp massage using herbs, flowers and oils was traced back to ancient times. The word "shampoo" originates from the Hindi word "champo", which means "to massage". Shampoo as we know it had rough beginnings. There was a water-soluble powder that originated in Germany by Hans Schwarzkopf. In the United States in the early 1900's through the 1920's, there was really just a small selection of harsh soaps. These soaps were used only every 4-6 weeks, and left a lot to be desired, as they caused an alkaline reaction in the hair and made it look dull. In the 1930's, the soap was replaced by synthetic detergents which were more pH balanced, and popularized in the United States by John Breck. It may be surprising to know that it wasn't until the 1970's- when celebrity-studded advertisements (the first "influencers") suggested that shampoo should be used several times a week- that the collective "wash day" frequency was increased. Let's not gloss over the whole "rinse and repeat" portion of the label's instructions, either. As explained above, shampooing more frequently creates the "need" to keep shampooing, and it's difficult to quit once it becomes a habit.

It's just one of the addictions created by advertising, though certainly one of the milder ones...

 

So, how does one "quit" washing their hair every day?

It takes some dedication, but it can be done! First, if the hair is washed daily, try skipping a day and wash every other day. Do this for a few weeks to a month or more. Next, skip two days in between washes, and repeat the process until wash day happens only 1-2 times a week. The most important part of this process will be brushing the hair every day in between washes. Thorough brushing from scalp to ends will move excess sebum to where moisture is needed the most. It's also a great way to improve circulation in the scalp, and feels really nice! Over time, the hair will become noticeably softer, shinier, and more manageable.

 

FAQ: Do I have to shampoo less?

This is subjective, of course. I shampoo once a week because the last thing I want to do on my day off is anything hair-related! I also don't really need to as I get older, but if I've spent the day outside in the garden or getting sweaty cleaning out my bathroom cabinets, I'll wash my hair again. If you tried your hardest and weaning off just didn't work, there are products that are more gentle and can be used more frequently. It's just going to be important to pay attention to what's going on with the scalp and hair, and to have at least a basic understanding how products work and are formulated. My goal is to deliver a summary of this information (hopefully without putting you to sleep faster than shampooing your hair would). Ultimately, it's not us, but the seemingly sentient being that is our hair, who decides. I know you know what I mean!

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PRO TIPS: 

When washing the hair, shampoo should be focused on the scalp, and avoided on the mid-lengths and ends (unless needed to remove product and other buildup). Lather well, massaging the scalp with pressure from the fingertips, and when rinsing, continue manipulating the scalp. If the shampoo is focused on the scalp only, it will gently cleanse the mid-lengths and ends as it is rinsed, preventing over-drying. When conditioning, focus product on the mid-lengths and ends, where moisture is needed the most. For some, it can be easier to detangle while conditioner is in the hair- just make sure to use a wide-toothed comb, as hair is more fragile when wet.

Haircare Routine

FAQ: DO I HAVE TO USE PROFESSIONAL BRANDS OF SHAMPOO AND CONDITIONER? 

Of course not. However, professional brands often are higher in quality, meaning less is used for the same or better results. Using less results in buying less often. Hair history is a factor, too. Coloring, perming, highlighting, relaxing or frequently heat styling may require a higher caliber of product to keep it in good shape. If the hair feels dry, is flyaway, prone to static, or unmanageable while using a certain brand or type, it may be time to evaluate whether that particular product being used is a factor.

We don't judge drugstore varieties here, though. A statement I often make is "If it works, it's a good product"!

 

​FAQ: DO I HAVE TO USE CONDITIONER AT ALL?

Again, no. Many clients with fine or thin hair skip the conditioner because they feel it weighs their hair down. Conditioner was designed to replenish the moisture that shampoo has the tendency to strip out along with dirt, sweat, oil and styling products. By following the washing Pro Tip above and keeping it off the scalp, there's really no reason to skip it, though. If the hair is showing signs of dryness, such as frizz, flyaways, brittleness, or static, it helps to add some moisture. Again, conditioner should only be applied to the mid-lengths and ends of the hair, to avoid weighing it down at the roots or causing buildup at the scalp.

 

FAQ: HOW DO I KNOW WHICH BRAND TO USE?

Following recommendations from a professional who already knows your hair is usually the safest bet, but it's impossible for anyone to nail it 100% of the time. So, before making any purchase, it doesn't hurt to do a little extra research- read ratings and reviews to see if others mention they have a similar hair type and that it works for them. A high-star rating with a high count is great, a "best seller" status is good but not guaranteed, and a viral trend is a gamble. Another statement I make all the time is "You have to try it to see if it works for you", and it's the truth. There are so many little nuances that make it difficult to generalize, and what makes something "good" is so very subjective. Just like you, I have a graveyard in the back of my cabinet where unfinished products are laid to rest (why can't I throw them out? Oh, right- because then I get sweaty and have to wash my hair again...).

I once read an article where the iconic Dita Von Teese was asked about her beauty regimen. Her response was unlike most others, as she stated that the exact products she used was irrelevant because her skin was not the same as someone else's. She said that seeing a dermatologist was better than buying a bunch of products and hoping for a miracle. It stuck with me (at the time I thought it was really sassy), and when I gained a little experience as a cosmetologist, I fully realized it to be true.

At the end of the day, the brand is less important than finding a product type that works for the needs of the hair- unless certain factors like vegan, eco-friendly or sulfate-free are a deciding factor. I personally am a sucker for the products that smell good, but if that product is not making my hair feel or look good, I'll switch to a product I know will fix my issues, regardless of fragrance- but I'm always on the lookout for a product that offers the best of both worlds!

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FAQ: I NEED TO USE SULFATE-FREE PRODUCTS BECAUSE THEY'RE BETTER, RIGHT?"

Not necessarily. There is a lot of conflicting information and a few myths regarding sulfate-free products and products with sulfates (SLS and SLES). What is true: Unless you are allergic to sulfates, they are not harmful, there is no scientific evidence that sulfates cause cancer, sulfate-free products are not necessarily superior, and either kind won't work for everyone, just like Dita sassily said.

When all is said and done, it's absolutely OK to use shampoos that contain sulfates, it's absolutely OK to use shampoos that are sulfate-free, and it's absolutely OK to switch between both! Again, the only way to know if a product will work for you is to try it. It would be worth trying a shampoo with sulfates if you have oily scalp, use a lot of products, are physically active and/or sweat a lot, or you only wash 1-2 times per week. Going sulfate-free would be worth trying if you have dry, flaky scalp, dry ends, wash frequently, or have a sensitivity to sulfates. Alternating between both kinds is a good idea if one or the other works for a while, then doesn't, and switching altogether would be advised if one or the other is causing adverse effects.

Here's a great article about sulfate-free shampoo, written by a chemistry PhD who is also a cosmetic chemist.

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Who would have thought that something as simple as washing hair could be so complicated??

It's really not- just look for the category that best represents your hair. If there are combinations, such as curly + dandruff, or color-treated + thin/fine, just choose the main concern that should be addressed. Most professional brands are already color safe and moisturizing. Plus, shampoos made for blonde/gray, dandruff or clarifying should only be used occasionally, so you can alternate with products that will address the other concern(s).

If choosing a product on your own still seems too overwhelming, don't hesitate to get in touch with me and I'll be happy to help!

Sulfate vs. Sulfate Free
Shampoos & Conditioners

As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.

This page contains affiliate links, which means I may receive a small commission, at no extra cost to you, if you make a purchase through one of my links. 

for color-treated hair

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FAQ: DO I HAVE TO WASH MY HAIR BEFORE COLORING?

It depends... color or lightener (bleach) will typically process better on clean, dry hair, so generally speaking, yes. However, if the hair has been washed within 24-48 hours before these applications and hasn't had too much of one product or too many different products applied, it should be fine. If it has been longer than 48 hours, or if the hair tends to be very oily, it might be a good idea to wash it.

The recommendation to avoid washing the hair before coloring was made to those who have sensitivities when color or lightener (bleach) is applied directly to the scalp. By not washing, natural sebum will build up, creating that oily barrier to protect the scalp. Somehow this got misconstrued, and some clients would skip washing for an extended period before their appointment. This is counterproductive, as color or lightener will then have to break through thick oil, dead skin cells , dirt, sweat and products before touching the hair strand, and the result can be less than optimal.

The best method to follow (for those who do not typically have a reaction to color or lightener) would be to wash 12-24 hours before your color or lightening appointment with a clarifying shampoo, skip or go light on the conditioner, skip applying styling products, and don't scrub the scalp too hard or use fingernails when washingScratching the scalp can create micro tears, which will become irritated by the chemicals applied. That's usually why you feel the tingling sensation within a few minutes of application, if it's not an allergy. For those with known sensitivities, washing 48 hours beforehand in the same manner is plenty of time to build up a thin, protective layer of sebum to keep the scalp from getting angry. 

"If it's burning, that means it's working, though"... mmm, no.

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FAQ: SHOULD A SHAMPOO FOR COLOR TREATED HAIR BE SULFATE-FREE? 

Science proves that not all sulfates strip hair color, so not necessarily. Furthermore, if the shampoo itself is formulated specifically for color-treated hair, it should be fine. Washing frequently with a sulfate-free shampoo is more likely to strip color than washing once a week with a shampoo that contains sulfates, because plain water can strip color, too! 

PRO TIPS: 

Shampoos and conditioners made for color-treated hair have extra moisturizing ingredients, since color-treated hair tends to get dry after processing... However, it's not necessary to have colored your hair in order to enjoy the extra moisture!

for blonde & gray

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PRO TIPS: 

Purple shampoos and conditioners (Milkshake Silver Shine, Fanola No Yellow, and Schwarzkopf Goodbye Yellow) help to neutralize yellow tones, and extend time between toning sessions for cool blondes. Black shampoos and conditioners (Milkshake Icy Blond) help neutralize copper and yellow tones on blondes and gray hair and help maintain gray and silver tones on artificially grayed hair. 

for brunettes

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PRO TIPS: 

Cold Brunette is a blue-pigmented line that is specially formulated to neutralize unwanted orange and red tones in brown, dark blonde, or color-treated hair, leaving it with a cool, ashy tone.

volumizing/thickening

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PRO TIPS: 

Volumizing shampoos and conditioners tend to reduce the amount of emollients (moisturizing agents) in them, in order to avoid weighing down fine or thin hair. Therefore, it is important to use a deep conditioning mask every now and then to keep fine or thin hair from becoming too dry, which leads to breakage and further thinning.

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daily use

PRO TIPS: 

Daily shampoos and conditioners are gentle and balanced, and won't over-dry your hair or weigh it down.

for curly hair

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PRO TIPS: 

Curly hair is drier by nature, so using a hydrating shampoo and conditioner is essential. Detangling with a wide-toothed comb while conditioner is in your hair, and then squeezing excess water out with a towel instead of rubbing to dry helps reduce frizz.

Here's a great YouTube video by a curly-haired curl specialist about shampooing with or without sulfates. This channel is worth taking a look at, as she shares lots of useful information about curly hair care!

for oily scalp

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PRO TIPS: 

The difference between a clarifying shampoo and a normalizing shampoo: clarifying targets mineral, product, oil and dirt buildup on the hair, while normalizing helps create balance of oil on the scalp.

for dandruff/dry scalp

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PRO TIPS: 

Dandruff is buildup of sebum (natural oils) and dead skin cells. Dry scalp is usually caused by using water that's too hot when washing the hair, or can come about after an on-scalp color or lightener application. In the cooler months, clients will often complain that their dandruff has come back, and say that they're switching to a dandruff shampoo. What really needs to happen is turning down the temperature in the shower! The water used to wash hair and skin should be as cool as can be tolerated, as heat is an enemy. If there are patchy, dry, irritated areas, bumps, or broken skin accompanying the flakes, it is advised to see a doctor or dermatologist.

When dealing with dandruff or dry scalp, using a shampoo brush can help loosen flakes, increase blood flow to the scalp and feels great!

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See Scalp + Skin Care for more tools and products!

for deep cleansing/detox/clarifying

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PRO TIPS: 

Clarifying, detox and deep cleansing shampoos help remove buildup of styling products, hard water minerals, chlorine from swimming, oil and environmental pollutants, which can make the hair feel heavy and look dull. By removing impurities, the hair can better absorb moisture, and natural definition and vibrancy can be restored. Companion conditioners are more lightweight and add softness without buildup. These shampoos should not be used too frequently, as they can dry out the hair and scalp.

Image by Rikonavt

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